Diffusers (nearly there I promise)

Ooh, this has been quite the journey. Our beautiful diffuser oils have been patiently waiting in their drums for many months now. Firstly we had issues with the packaging. I had a vision for the diffuser packaging and it was exquisite but impractical. I think as a designer, you have to be realistic and there was an internal argument brewing in me between the business man and the artist. Eventually the business man won and ordered me to abandon the hand-wrapped calligraphy paper rigid box with insert.

I eventually decided to position the diffuser identity as an extension of our current packaging and uplifted by giving each grouping its own signature print, just like our last seasonal offering the Russian Collection.

We're almost there...

We're almost there...

The bottle cap was the next issue. I was determined to use cork with a glass stopper and it wasn’t easy (lots of leakage issues to resolve) but 6 months of trials and testing and we’re there.

The final product is looking sharp and for those of you who are diffuser fans, there is no acrid alcohol smell as we used an alcohol free solution.

The 250ml diffuser is competitively priced at £30. When I launched the candles in the beginning it was important to me not to out-price ourselves as a new brand. The diffusers will be £35 by October but we wanted to offer keen pricing for the launch.

It’s a beautiful product and we’re thrilled to offer nine fragrances to start.

Kiss in Rio

Lost in El Salvador

Santissima

The Gypsy

Kartushya

Nightingale’s Jasmine

Dance in Summer Rain

Velvet Moss Rose

Mombasa


The Capitalist Candle

I was reading an article online yesterday at Guardian.co.uk and it really made me think. The article referenced Tesco’s (the supermarket giant) and portrayed a very bleak picture of a giant squeezing the British Pig farmers so hard that they protested aggressively last year, does anyone remember ? The article also portrayed a number of other incidents that made Tesco’s look rather mean to say the least. The argument then jostled the notion that these capitalist values are in fact the very seeds of our society and can we really criticize the supermarket chain for being profit driven… don’t we all thrive on these values at some level in our western lives, the answer is yes.

It made me think about my business model and the values that I have been trying to promote since we opened our perfumed doors. I feel passionately that the world is changing and consumers don’t consume blindly anymore. Nor are they particularly pleased when they receive products that don’t live up to the packaging or the name. So here’s the thing… there’s no smoke and mirrors about the Jonathan Ward range. We offer premium ingredients from the inside of the product out and it made me think that probably makes me a poor capitalist in light of the Tesco’s argument. I personally believe that we will keep our customer in today’s climate if we give a true quality product and don’t deploy any of the tardy candle tricks that we all know exist and loathe. For those of you who are scratching your heads, these can include – pouring the candles in layers so that less and less fragrance percentage is used in the bottom layers – essentially robbing your customer of the very thing they are buying into. Under filling is another popular trick, as is sending a product to market improperly tested so that wicks don’t burn all the way to the edge and 30-40% wax can be wasted.

Obviously our aim is to make a successful business that succeeds and flourishes but I believe once you start stripping away the quality of the raw materials to enhance profits or squeezing your suppliers so hard that they don’t want to work with you its a recipe for issue.

We will continue to actively promote quality hand made products made from premium raw materials. Products that are quality from the inside out. Without brand values you have very little so we’ll stick to them.


The not so humble rose…

One of the reasons I originally left the fashion industry was the constant need for reinvention. This thirst for new, new, new just didn’t sit well with my design philosophies. When I as young I would spend hours, days weeks, creating a single drawing or painting. Nothing made me happier than to create something on paper. It was this detailed and fastidious approach that has formed the blueprint for the JWL collection today.

The JWL collection originated as a scent diary – a referential olfactory tool that documented my earlier life and brought good memories back to life in a pleasing way. Obviously as my life has developed the inspirations have developed and there are only so many childhood memories that actually smell, well – for want of a better word – good !

If you know me, you’ll know that there is an definable personal handwriting that runs through the collection’s inspirations and there is nothing in the line that is there just to fill a gap. With life, as in art, the quest for self improvement means that I am always looking at the work I have done and desiring to make things better. Later this month the olfactory spotlight swings towards the not so humble Josephine’s Rose fragrance.

Portrait of Josephine by Andrea Appiani

Portrait of Josephine by Andrea Appiani

The story behind this aroma is fascinating. Napoleon’s Josephine (also know as the Patroness of Roses) inspired this scent and I do believe it is the finest creation we have ever put into the market. But more on that later, we need to get historical for a little bit.

Josephine kneeling before Napoleon at Coronation

Josephine kneeling before Napoleon at Coronation

In 1799 when Napoleon was at sea Josephine purchased the Chateau de Malmaison. The famous rose garden was started soon after the purchase and Josephine learned a great deal in a short time from the gardening staff. It is reported that even though Napoleon was at war and many products were difficult to transport (ships were being used primarily to transport war materials) Josephine’s roses were always allowed to make it through from anywhere in the world. The general assumption is that at the time of her death there were 250 roses in her garden. Her dedication to roses bore the world’s first written history of roses and she was responsible for the world’s first rose exhibition in 1810.

Entrance to the beautiful Malmaison Mansion

Entrance to the beautiful Malmaison Mansion

Statue of Josephine at Malmaison Mansion

Statue of Josephine at Malmaison Mansion

I wanted to pay an homage to the dedication that one woman lavished on her passion and it deservedly needed to be something special. And indeed it is. We have created layers of exquisitely decadent deep and haunting rose notes, complimented with spicy tuberose and a shadow of poetic Iris. Touches of animal like musks are delicately layered into the base of this aroma and subtle spices and pepper make it unabashedly robust. Its truly one of those “smell it and see” experiences as try as I might, I do not have a colourful enough grip on the English language to pay this scent justice. When Kartushya was released back in October, I thought that we would never achieve better, but if you are a fan of our new fragrance direction this one definitely does not disappoint. You’ll rarely see my blogging style dedicated to simply promoting a single scent but in this case there is a definite merit for its own platform. If you’re available to join us later in the month, we are having a little gathering to crack open the champagne on what hopes to be a great start to the year. More details to come on this so stay tuned.

The enchanting and nostalgic "Jospehine's Rose"

The enchanting and nostalgic "Jospehine's Rose"


“…launches and lunches”

For the first time since our doors opened, last month we were able to put on a chic little press gathering at the Soho Hotel’s Crimson Room in the heart of Soho. It was an intimate affair of 25 guests and I executed a live candle pouring demonstration in honour of the new Russian themed collection of candles. We had a reasonably successful turn out with journalists and buyers alike. In contrast to our Australian event, this event was more “drop in, mingle and leave” as I was competing with Kylie Minogue’s new fragrance launch so at the last minute, we saw a number of polite declines. Apparently my charms and humble affair could not compete with Miss Minogue’s olfactory enchantments !

The event was tasteful and low key and I tried hard not to make it into a lecture even though I was executing a demonstration. Nobody likes to be lectured and considering the sheer volume of launches and lunches that press have to attend, I figured short, funny and informative (coupled with lashings of bubbly and canapes) was the ticket.

The event was a success and we received a number of positive tweets and emails letting me know as much. However it posed to me a rather perplexing issue. As a small brand that had previously been unable financially to host press launches of this caliber, I always thought that once we were elevated enough to be able to host such events, we would have no problem filling a room and might even be faced with the issue of turning people away ! Not so. My PR team had to work jolly hard to secure the attendees and even some long-time Jonathan Ward fans and supporters chose the other event, and some just didn’t show. If you’re a small brand starting out, your launch means the world to you, but in actuality is just one of many that press need to attend in a month.

I know that some brands have resorted to gimmicks like having live animals or hiring A list celebrities to attend and that seems to pull the crowds in and create a buzz. I have to say, I’ll always be product focused and relatively low key. As long as I hold the reigns of Jonathan Ward London we’ll try to draw people to us with products of integrity and tasteful little gatherings. Here’s to the next one !

Please find below a sample of the launch photographs.

Jonathan talking to Yoga Magazine

Jonathan talking to Yoga Magazine

"Champers alright for you Pats ?"

"Champers alright for you Pats ?"

The best of business partners

The best of business partners

Hubble bubble toil and Kartushya ?

Hubble bubble toil and Kartushya ?

My right hand never looked so good...

My right hand never looked so good...

Buyers and Press Unite

Buyers and Press Unite

Cherished People

Cherished People

"...Kartushya cocktail anyone?"

"...Kartushya cocktail anyone?"

Candle Making for Dummies (and the not so dummies)

Candle Making for Dummies (and the not so dummies)

Team JW (part of us...)

Team JW (part of us...)

Team JW assists potential buyers

Team JW assists potential buyers


Waxing irritable…

One thing that literally drives me to distraction is when people denigrate scented candles as an inferior product that falls somewhere below bath and body and definitely does not come close to fine fragrance.

The candle category is definitely overcrowded in the United Kingdom. Because of the vast array of products available in a guise of shapes and sizes, one could easily think that candles are an easy sell and easy to produce. I’m here to let you know they’re not. it made my blood boil the other day when some monied icon was quoted to say “giving your loved one a scented candle is deep ly unimaginative”. It depends whether or not you look below the surface to what the aroma is intended to evoke, or whether or not your taste level can appreciate the subtle complexities in the kaleidoscope range of notes we capture in our blends.

Some of our fragrance blends cost upwards of £800 for 10kg, they are premium sourced oils and ingredients and if you know the difference between good and mediocre, then you’ll agree.

Most people who know my line understand what goes into the collection and how hard we work to strive for perfection. The process of candle making (which we tackle head first in our own facility) is no easy feet. Each candle aroma requires its own special blueprint and wick. We’re not content to run the same wick in the same jar and we started testing in March of 2011 for a September launch.

As I write this we just received a request for candles to fill goody bags in a wedding show. To add insult to injury the email was a blanket email with no name or title. I must have refused over ten requests this year for goody bags and they keep on coming.

Our candles are the main attraction not the opening act – some of the press we have received this season is starting to reflect that very philosophy.


W stands for wholesale

20111206-002731.jpg

2011 has seen Jonathan Ward London open a wealth of new accounts and while they’re all special to me in their own ways, the “W” Hotel in Leicester Square holds a special place for me. When I lived in America and had to travel extensively throughout the country, the “W” became representative of comfort and safety. As those of you know, traveling for work is not always glamorous. It can be exciting at first, but there were times during that period when I would be up in the clouds and forget where I was heading to !

Now things are much more manageable and this month I’m excited to report that Jonathan Ward London is available for sale in the gorgeous W Hotel Spa in London’s Leicester Square !

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The spa manager Michelle has done an amazing job – clean white lines, beautiful lighting and superb services are on offer with some very sought after specialists…

I have to say, there was only a smattering of candles left so I can confidently say that the candles are selling very well…


what a day…

Today was the busiest day we have ever had at Jonathan Ward London. I am sitting at the desk for the first time in about three days and reflecting on everything that is happening and it feels really good. I don’t like to use the blog as a self congratulatory tool to try and create a sales drive, its more a chance for me to air my opinions in what can be excruciatingly long hours that sees me unable to participate with the outside world as much as I would like.

There are truly magical things happening and I think it is down to the latest collection (Russia) that we are being propelled forward at quite the pace. Its always hard to gauge how you are doing to the outside world when you’re working “in” your own business. I think only when you are truly working “on” the business are you allowed reflective strategy time.

Today we completed Australia’s third monumental order. The business there has really blossomed thanks to EcoLuxe and its diligence as a superb partner and distributor. Obviously its beautiful summer over there in Australia so they ordered heavily into the Spring lines and I am happy to report (and reveal) that the Verte range has a beautiful little lick of Spring paint. I reversed the green with white accents to white with green accents (photographs attached).

Fresh lick of Spring paint for the Verte range

Fresh lick of Spring paint for the Verte range

We shipped our first Harrods order today to their Urban Retreat department on the fifth floor and I let out a little scream of delight. Its been such a an uphill battle getting the premium retailers to take notice, but as I reflect on this day, I believe that it couldn’t have come at a better time. The collection just wasn’t ready before and I had not fully found my voice. I was really proud to stamp the boxes with the Harrods labels and felt that the line deserved to be there. It was a proud moment.

We shipped yet another order of glass to be coloured into the little Russian soldiers that have made this season so successful. We are just managing to keep that line in stock, it has not been easy !

I received an email earlier today asking if I would consider designing a custom range for one of the world’s biggest pop stars. I cannot reveal who this is (yet) but whether or not it comes to fruition Jonathan Ward is getting noticed in all the right places it seems.

I was approached by a very high brow creative director to partner with him on a consultancy basis (wish I could mention names, but alas its unprofessional).

Despite all the movement, we still managed to pour 200 new Russian candles today and I’m writing this as they dry below me. I’m wondering how long we will keep them in this time… :) We now have 2 candle pour staff and I am looking into more space if next year looks to start as busy as we anticipate.

And so the soldiers march on and on...

And so the soldiers march on and on...

Rows of Russian soldiers waiting for their homes

Rows of Russian soldiers waiting for their homes

We were contacted by a Japanese distributor and we have started discussions although will not likely happen for quite a while.

Its an ever changing business now that I can barely hold onto the reigns and trying to keep some time for myself is quite the challenge. I will be at the gym tomorrow morning at 7am if anyone wants to have a cup of tea and a chat while I am on the treadmill !


My meeting with Roja Dove

I think that one has few truly nerve racking moments in one’s career. Speaking on live television for hours was one. Hosting a launch party and hoping that press would indeed turn up also springs to mind. However, a few weeks ago I had the honour of meeting the incredibly talented and respected Roja Dove. A professor of perfume, owner of a number of successful companies with worldwide reach and a genuine creative force in the world of fragrance.

We arranged to meet at the Connaught Hotel and I was particularly nervous about this meeting. I know that my work is somewhat respected and I also know that the fragrances are of quality, but Roja has the highest standards for his Haute Perfumery and his other businesses and I suddenly felt very small. I joked with a friend that it was like going for a really scary job interview ! I am merely starting out in the world of fragrance and 3-5 years is considered very young. People who have dedicated themselves to fragrance, often spend a lifetime perfecting their very unique skills. I am self trained / taught, but rely on the support of my dedicated perfumery house to help me create Jonathan Ward London (for now), I plan to start training alongside a perfumer next year so that I can turn my creative briefs into accords on my own.

For all my nerves, Roja turned out to be a gentle poised man with the confidence that comes with a little time and he made me feel at ease immediately. Conversation flowed naturally and we spoke about all manner of things, coffee turned into lunch and the meeting ran on through mid afternoon.

It was such an honour to sit in front of a man who was so humble about his vast achievements and accolades. I would be very content in life I were able to achieve half of what he has. The next time you are in Harrods please stop by to see his creations in the perfumery located on the fifth floor as part of the super stylish Urban Retreat.

The talented Mr Dove at work

The talented Mr Dove at work

A few days after the meeting I received a hand written letter with a beautiful wax seal thanking me for a lovely meeting and this really was the beautiful scented cherry on top of the cake. Talented, kind and polite, my meeting with Roja inspired me to better myself and strive for greater things based on knowledge and kindness.


The Superblog

The nice thing about writing a blog for me is that work can often be so consuming and the days lengthy that I can become trapped in a world that is all about candles, candles and more candles. Reading my favourite blogs has become a way to remain constantly updated about my friend’s news and projects. I’ve been thinking lately about the very nature of having a blog and how its become a form of expression for people who wish to have a genuine voice and opinion.

I was lucky enough to share a lovely evening last week with the charming and interesting Lee Kynaston (AKA Grooming Guru) who said that he started his blog as a way to have his voice heard and to write about things he wanted to write about. He did add that at the end of the day it was just moisturiser and shaving lotion but I feel his blog is a little more probing. I laughed at dinner as he gently pushed me to find out more details to his questions. I commented “You’re the true journalist”.

Perception of the blogging community has changed in recent years and large companies now want to “get on board” and have recognized the power that a blog has in communicating messages to their readers. Now that this has started to turn into sales, worldwide mega brands are now dedicating serious focused attention to working with the blogging community as a viable tool for getting their products reviewed honestly.

Blogs have now started to work with companies in marketing collaborations and you can see various promotions and offers on blogs and in blogs. It begs the question, if blogs are becoming sponsored, how do bloggers retain an honest voice and maintain authenticity and integrity. For instance if a power brand pays for space on a website or blog, and coincidentally launches a new product that doesn’t merit a favorable review ? Does the blog then reflect that opinion while the advertisement is running ? How could that sit with the advertisement on the same page ? I’m not sure what the answer is but I hope that the wonderful voices that I have grown to love in the blogging community don’t change or grow quietly censored.


Wholefoods Market New Store Opening Giffnok, Glasgow (Post 2)

Just back to the hotel after day number 2. I am seriously tired, but its been an amazing second day at Wholefoods Glasgow.

It has to be said I don’t think that I could have even anticipated how well the two days could have went. The Glaswegian people are warm, open, intuitive, savvy shoppers that can spot quality a mile off. Customers were not hard to talk to at all, were overall happy to listen and even if they didn’t buy there and then they expressed enthusiasm and would depart with warm wishes for the brand. All in all it was a fabulous few days and sales were much higher than anticipated.

The general feeling amongst the locals was one of genuine pleasure that Wholefoods has come to the area. I enjoyed a fresh burrito at lunch and gossiped with a local woman who was thrilled that the store had arrived.

I managed to talk with Jeff the United Kingdom’s president for Wholefoods Markets and it has to be said “hats off”. A lot of London’s key senior team members were in Giffnok supporting the launch. Wholefoods operate an entirely different management style than most large grocery chains, management really works with the team members and they can often be seen on the floor, carrying stacking, lifting, working with customers which I admire and respect.

To recap – the best selling styles for the weekend were of course the Russian range, Mombasa, Rio, El Salvador and Idina’s Locket.

I am leaving Glasgow very contented.